Lure Coursing FAQ

• What is Lure Coursing? A simulation of chasing game by using a set of pulleys on a specified layout to challenge the running skills of your dog. Also an excellent form of exercise that sight hounds really enjoy!

• Do they use real rabbits? No, lure coursing uses "lures" that are usually plastic bags tied to the string that navigates the layout.

• How does it work? A machine, usually a starter motor, turns a wheel which pulls the string along the layout. The pulleys make turns that simulate game running, and test the dogs capability to "course" prey.

• How can I prepare my dog? The best training involves running. If you have the right pack they can self condition if they are inclined to do so while they are playing, but you need lots of space for them to get to full double suspension gallop. Alternatives include: having your dog run back and forth between you and a partner; hiring a youngster with LOTS of energy to be chased; and/or have your dog take up swimming. The emphasis here is that the dog MUST BE IN GOOD SHAPE!

• Can my dog get hurt? While it is rare, as the sport is set up to be safe and safety minded, there is an inherent risk. Yes, and the more out of condition that he is the greater the probability! This is an athletic event and as such risks at top performance are possible.

• How does my dog get scored? This is always a bit complicated the first few times you are exposed to it. Lure Coursing lends itself to a more consistent and comparative performance of hounds based largely on the restriction of variables. Coursing, regardless of the type measures:

  1. Speed

  2. Follow

  3. Endurance

  4. Agility

  5. Enthusiasm BUT, The Best Score of All, is That BIG SMILE on Your Dog's Face When He returns!

   

• Who is the Huntmaster? The Huntmaster who starts the course and tells the handlers to retrieve their hounds also is responsible for keeping an eye on the hounds for their safety.

• Who is the Lure Operator? The lure operator controls the speed of the lures and is responsible for the safe running of the hounds.

• What supplies do I need? SHADE & WATER are obligatory for your dog and nice for you. Additional levels of paraphernalia will become an integral part of your coursing equipment. Most folks end up with some common items such as: blankets, slip leads, spray bottles, adhesive tape, extra hats, a towel or two, Ex-Pens, etc.
  I always recommend some First Aid items for yourself or others, it does not matter when a dog is in trouble.

• Does the fastest dog win? The most common mistake is to think of this as a race (see How does my dog get scored? Above)! It involves more than clocking a dog from start to stop! The above categories have point ranges and are totaled for each "course".

• Can all breeds take part? It is readily apparent that many dogs can and do course, however, the breed originally developed for coursing are the following sight hounds: Afghan Hounds, Basenjis, Borzois, Greyhounds, Ibizan Hounds, Irish Wolfhounds, Pharaoh Hounds, Salukis, Scottish Deerhounds and Whippets; and Rhodesian Ridgebacks.

• What does it mean to recover your dog? After the course (or during if he designates your dog) the Huntmaster tells you to recover your hounds. However, the first training any of my hounds get is recall!! I reinforce with command, unique whistle, motion (a circle with my arms) and FOOD!! I want this command to ALWAYS work!! Always praise your dog no matter his results ö remember that up until this time you have probably scolded or punished him for running away, so get the message clear!! Also, there are times that the score may not reflect what you felt your dog did, DO NOT take that out on dog in any fashion (even brooding silence) wrong message!!!

• What to do after your course? Walk your dog and get a little running in to cool him off!!! This is a good time to tell him how good he was and rub him as well as pet him. Like all athletes, he must have a cool down period for his muscles to avoid cramps! I use about 10 to 15 minutes after my course and cool them off with walk, then walk and trot, then trot and walk. I intermittently massage thigh muscles (drive) and triceps of forelegs (reach) muscles as though I was kneading bread to get the excess blood back out of muscles. Your dog will love this contact and it helps ease him back down after running! If hot or hard run, I give water (usually with some electrolyte solution) in small but frequent amounts to help cools system. I have also used the garden sprayer bottles to wet the dog down if weather is real hot or dog is very hot. Some folks use the little sprayer bottles as a means of cooling the dog while limiting the water intake.

• How can I practice my dog? Like all athletes, you MUST TRAIN your dog so that (they can run without straining itself! This means you need to condition the dog through exercise. Although, lure coursing itself is a great training tool, it must be worked up to before active participation. Most sighthounds will run, and most run with all of their instinct in full force. While any number of techniques have been developed, you should select one that suits you and your dog. One means is to have two folks the dog will run to standing well apart from each other and having the dog go from one to the other. As pups you may use favorite toys on strings or fishing poles to be able to have them chase with minimum risk of injury.

• How can I find out if my dog likes it? Generally, for lure coursing it is easier to prepare yourself than your dog. One easy way to slide into this sport is to attend a trial, and run your dog in the "fun runs". These are for puppies, novices and dogs that have become too field wise. Sometimes clubs charge a nominal sum for these runs, and most operators will do everything they can to encourage the dog to run.